This is a tutorial sent in by a web visitor (Paul H.) He figured out a terrific way to make the glass dagger and he shows us the process, step by step.

This is also an excellent tutorial on how to make something with a two-part rubber mold. You can use what you learn here to make just about anything in a rubber mold.

My thanks go to Paul for sharing this tutorial with us! He has submitted lots of great stuff to this website.

Here is the Glass Dagger we make in this tutorial. It just needs paint.

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1. Starting as always with a paper template.  Then marking out on plywood.

2. Building my positive with air dry clay.
As this is meant to represent obsidian (which like flint fractures conchoidally.) therefore using a spoon I made it look knapped.

3. Both sides shaped and sealed with good old Mod Podge.

4. Using some sulphur free clay I rolled this out and scraped out a "cradle" for the positive to sit in.

5. Carving out with wire tool.

6. Shape clay around the positive. (Note the Foam Board box floor in place.) I used some wire to form the expansion channels and an air dry plug to create filling funnel.

Hot gluing rest of form. *Make sure that there are no gaps between board and clay.

7. I used a pen to create the indentations that would become locating pegs for 1st side of silicon.

8. Calculation of silicon for mould. Using some kitchen film draped over and filling with dry rice to cover the positive approximately 1 inch above its highest point. It makes it easier to weigh in a container on digital scales. Weight of rice = weight of silicon for one side of moulding. Hardener in this case is 5% of weight of silicon.

9. After mixing thoroughly - until hardener no longer appears streaky. It is poured into container.
*Lift mix high as you pour it onto one end and allow it to gravitate to cover it all.
*see Will's Glass dagger project.

Bubbles will start to form but if you blow on them it dissipates the surface tension or you can employ the air brush to achieve the same effect as I have here.

10. This is result.

11. Tips - make sure you have digital scales that can zero a container then measure the quantity you require accurately. Make sure there are no gaps between clay and sides. Make sure that you have enough material to make your full moulding. In making a dagger or bladed item such as this it is difficult to gauge the amount of positive exposed to silicon. Can make the difference between a deep blade moulding and a poor shallow one.

12. The next stages are, removing the foamboard sides to dismantle the clay. If you can re-use them do so if not then remake around the positive and silicon.
Your weight to hardener ratio will be the same for 2nd pour. * The supplier of my silicon suggested that as silicon will stick to itself then a release agent such as petroleum jelly mixed with a little methylated spirits should be enough to separate sides. 24 hours later - separate sides. I used baby talc all over the silicon pieces to absorb any areas which were still sticky.

Continue with the tutorial

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