In this part of the tutorial we fit together the inner sword and the outer sword.

Part 1 of this tutorial is here

Lay out your first layer of foam and place the sword on it.

And notice how the sword guard lines up with the foam. This is about right. The center line of the guard is on the edge of the foam. This is about how the game sword is and it also gives maximum strength to the sword set.

The sword is going to be sandwiched between your two layers of foam like this. We need, however, to created a space for the sword so it can slide in and out easily.

Trace the sword onto the foam. Then flip the sword over and trace it onto the other layer of foam pieces. It is important to flip the sword over when tracing the second set. This will negate any inconsistencies in the shape of the sword.

Now we need to carve out the two layers of foam so we can slide the sword between them.

Foam is easy to carve and you have a lot of options. I started with this wood carving tool. It is kind of like a cheese grater.

Stanley 21-115 Surform Shaver

You can also use a rasp. It works really well on foam.

I also used a dremel tool. It works really well for this.

The lesson here is that there are a lot of different options you have when carving out the foam.

You want to carve each of the two foam halves to about half the depth of your sword. I used a piece of foamboard as a guage to check the depth and evenness of the carving.

Ok, The carvings look great. You can see that the sword fits nicely into one foam layer and the second set of foam sheets is carved and ready to be placed on top. Fit those two layers of together with the sword in between and check to see that the sword slides smoothly in and out. Adjust and carve more foam as needed. Then glue the two halves together keeping the sword in between as you glue it.

Here you see I am applying the glue. I am using liquid nails for paneling and foam molding.

Ok, Let's continue

Elmer's 900802 Foam Board, White Surface with White Core, 20 x30 (Pack of 10)

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